Pringles! Thai Style: not pictured- soft shell crab and seaweed

Veiw of Chiang Mai from the hike: zoom a few thousand times and you'll find ISDSI

At the forest temple: Sabai Sabai...relaxed, harmonious with life, all is well

Some of the group in front of the Wat Doi Suthep stairs: (notice the Yesterdog shirt.Reppin)
Pure surprise: Farang and Chang bff for life
One of my favorite fruits: impossible to pronounce/write...Nghaugh? It's all in the throat

Yesterday my host family brought me to Duke's. It's an Italian restaurant, Farang style: individual ordered meals rather than shared Thai style of mix and match dishes and hodge podge grabbing, Menu written strictly in English and naturally overpriced. "I bring you here so you feel like you in you're Michigan." Awww, thanks Kun Mae. At first I was kind of bummed, I love Thai food and don't like them spending unnecessary large sums of money on me... but once the food came it was nice to eat some things I haven't seen in a month. I have been craving pizza and mashed potatoes both of which were welcomed by my taste buds, happy to be reunited with their long lost friends cheese and potato.

Before the food came out my Mae pulled out four Tupperware containers. Fruit! She must have known that she wasn't going to like the salad dressing I would choose (I don't think they would have liked any of the choices actually, they like something similar to mayo smothered on their salads...) and of course once the food came we simply ate Thai style anyway: all plates in the middle, a flurry of knives, forks, hands...and ketchup. Ketchup by the bottle. I kid you not we went through 2 whole medium sized, glass Heinz ketchup bottles. They may not have been completely full but we had to grab a third bottle from another table, so I stick by my estimate of TWO complete bottles. My family loves the stuff especially my little brother who had to swim through the pool of red on his plate to find the crust of his pizza at the bottom. "Would you like any pizza with your ketchup?"

After lunch we went shopping for my dinner party. It's my last weekend :( because next Saturday we move into dorms. Therefore, it's the time to do it big. We made Suki! Basically we have these tables at our house that have 4 hot plates built in, one in front of each seat. We had a bowl of boiling water, into which we added whatever we desired. A cornucopia of vegetables, a plethora of thinly stripped meat, seafood aplenty: shrimp, fresh fish, crab meat. And a rainbow of unidentified processed thingamabobs. Star shaped, cat shaped, fish shaped doohikeys...pink and white in color (My best guess: fish "balls") circles, squares, the occasional dumbell shaped shmooshma, usually tan in color on the outside, sometimes flecks of unnatural green, red, orange, neon yellow on the inside...I think you get the picture. I was braving the unknown. No worries, I love adventure. On second thought, I don't think I explained the full extent of options I was given. There was also eggs, jelly noodles, several tofu options, green sauce, red sauce, cilantro, garlic, crispy pork wafers, chili paste....I actually really didn't know what to do with myself when I first saw it all. I kind of waited around until my Kun Mae started to plop things into my bowl and then just watched and learned. Sanook Sanook Sanook (fun). Rroan rroan rroan (HOT) Soon my broth got a little saltier as I began to sweat profusely due to spiciness and excessive steam. A few trips to the kitchen for some ice and all was well.

Writing this is making me realize how much I'm going to miss my family, they are so much fun and have made my home stay experience better than I could have ever expected. I was actually pretty nervous and was prepared to feel awkward and crave contact with my American friends for 5 weeks. I was proved wrong in all respects and feel more connected to my new home than I thought was possible to feel after such a short amount of time. It's nice to know that I have a safe and welcoming place on two opposite sides of the world. My Mae has already told me I have to go out to eat with her for the festival in November and told me next year to come back with my mother and "No need for hotel, you stay with me." This Thursday is the host family dinner party hosted by ISDSI, I hope I don't cry.

OHHHHH Duuuh. I mean Doi. I forget to write about Doi Suthep hike on Friday. Holy Holy cow. I mean Holy Wat. I mean holy temple. After hiking 1 mile straight up a mountain...Not exaggerating it took 2 hours and was full of exciting obstacles such as fallen trees, streams, rocks, vines, the occasional passed out student (j/k)...we reached Wat Doi Suthep. The second most famous Wat in all of Chiang Mai. We changed out of our sweaty hiking clothes and into our culturally appropriate wat-wear and proceded to walk up 300 stairs with beautiful undulating dragons escorting us on either side. Just what our legs needed. Ha. It was pretty touristy and pretty pretty. There was an amazing view which quenched my thirst for wide open space and beautiful carvings and Buddhas aplenty.

The hike itself was a chance to realize the extent of the diversity of wildlife sustained by a tropical climate. We hiked through 4 different types of forests the names of which I promptly forgot and saw literally thousands of different plants. A monkey was spotted, I saw a big grandpa turtle, so many beautiful butterflies (of course, my spirit animal follows me even in Thailand) dragonflies, and huge bugs I would rather stay away from. Several waterfalls, a lunch packed in banana leaves, a long, thoughtful stroll through a smaller forest temple halfway up the mountain...Just another day at school.

:)

I can't believe it's already been a month. Time is flying and I love every second.

I'll leave you with a great Thai joke I heard.
Preface: another word that makes more sense to me in Thai than English. The word for a bad smell is men. Stinky men. Easy peasy lemon squeezy, I can remember than one and thank goodness no weird faces, tones, or tongue tricks accompany it.

"Which bathroom smells worse men's or women's?"
"Women's because there is Woooo-men" (imagine with someone emphasizing the wooo and fanning their nose, maybe it’s a hard one to get across via the internet. Remind me to tell you sometime…

Oof. Fail.

Until next time...
Sabai Sabai

AA...Alcoholics Annannamous

DK with the groups fave drink, Hong Thong: Cheers, we made it to Thailand

Max and I sampling the local...cuisine?: nom nom nom...don't worry, not enough to blah ;)

Today I learned that Lohw means whiskey in Thai.

This would explain why my sisters laughed so hard at me the first night ofmy Host Stay when I proclaimed loudly and proudly, several times..."Imm lohw imm lohw"....I'm full of whiskey.

I was trying to say Imm layo....I'm full already.

This explains a lot. No wonder they hide all the alcohol in the house.

Anna Witte- queen of all first impressions.

Horses and Chang rides and falls oh THAI !

Rot Deng Ride: Louie, Emblz, and me

Behind the waterfall!: Louie, Jordan, and Jamie

Retreat: Hippies, butterfly children, and tree huggers

Bridge to our cabins: Clap if you beleive in fairies.

Crazy Horse Buttress: The epic climb

Born ready: Max and me, geared up, geekin out

MOK FAH: Ahhhhhhh

I never posted about the retreat last weekend! It was a blast and a well deserved break from classes. We went to Mok Fah waterfall at Doi Suthep National Park.
We played some crazy games that got a lot physical, a lot competitive and a lot sweaty. So fun.
We had to respond to some emergency scenarios as a team, which made me reflexively grab for a non-existent lanyard with a non existent whistle (thanks for the brainwashing Grand Rapids Parks and Rec.).
We played some music, sang some ditties, star gazed, had giant bonfires, ran around barefoot, became one with nature, and all lived happily ever after. Not really, but kinda. There was even a little bridge that lit up with these pretty lamps that made me feel like I was in a fairy tale...So surreal, as most things and experiences have been so far.

Then this week of classes went really well, my language lesson isn't making me want to cry anymore and the seminar topic was right up my alley...sociology of Thailand. So interesting, I was way into it... I can try to give a spark notes version because it's fascinating. Keeping social harmony is put above all other things here. The way efficiency or effectiveness is put above all things in the U.S. This is because Thai people are concerned with "saving face" They don't want people they care about and respect to ever feel embarrassed or upset. In order to prevent those feelings they will not confront them under any circumstance. Confrontation would upset social harmony and cause people to lose face. This is why my host family/ajaans/pis are very forgiving of my silly culturally insensitive mistakes; they do not want me to lose face or upset the social harmony of our relationship. This is just one example of something that is seen in many aspects of Thai culture and really explains a lot of things that could seem very strange to someone (like me) who comes from a very different cultural context. I eat this stuff up.

Speaking of eating...
When I first came to the conclusion that my family's nannies (Pi A and Pi Noot) were doing a social experiment on me, I decided I was prooobably being paranoid. But after several occurrences of either one of them shoving strange and overwhelmingly spicy things down my throat the second they get me alone, I think my suspicions have been validated. Most Thai people I have eaten meals with get very worried about my tolerance for spicy dishes, and my peers have told me similar stories about their host families. My curious nannies must be on a mission to find out exactly what foods foreigners can tolerate. Yesterday Pi A literally put something in my mouth against my will. Straight up came up to me with a piece of ped blah tohd (spicy fried fish) and proceeded to pry my mouth open with chopsticks and drop the disgusting parcel in my mouth. She then began rambling at me in Thai and I sat there trying to swallow without crying. "mai alloy, mai alloy" Not delicious. She waddled off laughing, I'm assuming to tell Pi Noot and record her newfound data.
Then this morning they decided to switch it up and move on to poisoning me with sugar. They gave me hot chocolate, which I watched them spoon ungodly (un-buddah-ly?) amounts of thick sweetened condensed milk into, and something similar to a deep fried pancake with a waterfall of yet more sweetened condensed milk and a fountain of sugar, rolled up into a delicious heart attack stogy which I promptly smoked down. Hours have past and I still feel the ashes, an anchor in my stomach. Condensed milk harbor.

Luckily there was no time for Pi A to give me a second heart attack wrap because my Mae came to tell me to get changed. It was time to go ride some Chang. ELEPHANTS! I went with Sarah's host family and I loved getting to know them, her host parents are teachers and her kun Pa speaks great English. The Elephant resort was...interesting. Obviously catered towards tourists but hey, sometimes you just have to suck it up and be the stereotypical farang and ride a chang. We rode through a really beautiful village surrounded by mountains and tropical trees...just breathtaking...and bumpy. After the 30 minute ride was over and we were back on much lower ground the rider told us to come over to the front of the elephant, and all the sudden in one swift blur of grey I was lifted up in the air by a powerful trunk. Sarah got a great picture of my face, what a surprise.

Everything is kind of a surprise here I rarely know what's going on in the moment let alone the next week, day, or even hour. For example last week we were told that Friday would be spent rock climbing. Naturally I was pumped, no classes and I get to make a fool of myself in a dorky belt...I couldn't wait. But of course I was picturing something along the lines of a YMCA style, multi walled, colorful playdough-esque fake rocks in random patterns..rock climb.Duh......Nope. They meant rock climbing in the most literal way possible. Crazy Horse Buttress, a beautiful and very real rock face. My first time climbing a real mountain and it was not easy, but it was a thrill and so much more fulfilling that ringing a stupid bell after clambering up play dough steps (no offense to those who are indoor rock climb junkies). We also repelled down a 120 drop in a cave. Nbd. BIG DEAL. It was pretty terrifying but I felt extremely safe at the same time, there's just something unnerving and unnatural about semi-floating in the middle of an enormous cave. Unnerving and spectacular.
The staff was so awesome, they got us geeked up from the start with some dorky games to ward off any and all possible attempts to keep dignity in tact. For example: you are this animal (look at card, don't tell your friends) Ok now close your eyes. Find your animal pack. Use only sounds. Elephant? Not as easy as it sounds. No pun intended. They made the entire experience a blast. They were never condescending and encouraged us the whole time. I couldn't have asked for better teachers. Thanks Pi Oo-an and Nong Day. Team Chang for life :)

What next?...It's Thailand. Ya never know.

Don't judge a tuk tuk by its driver.. Actually on second thought..

Me n' my goldfish: Thai hat...muddy clothes and still getting macked on.

Muay Thai fight: Adventure to downtown first night in Chiang Mai.

Market: Kat Luang.

At the fish farm: holy cows

The most important thing I’ve learned so far is: Do not trust initial assumptions.
Usually these assumptions stem from appearances.

For example, just because a fruit looks delicious and exotic from the outside, does not mean that it is going to taste like the crisp, fresh prickly-pear-esque fruit one might imagine from its deceiving “peel” which is actually more like a shell. Once opened, I saw fist sized yellow pieces of fruit that upon putting in my own fist I found oddly soft. Upon biting into the piece of fruit (which I had to keep reminding myself was NOT a chicken thigh despite all sensory signals) I was even more bewildered. Creamy? Slimy. A hint of… vanilla? Overwhelmingly sweet. With a…what is that…garlic after taste? Needless to say I was left confused after my adventure with the spiky, head sized monstrosity that is the Durian. My Mae loves them and often brings home three at a time and I eat several pieces at her request. Oy.

Another example: Just because roads look similar to those in the U.S does not mean they operate under the same rules, laws, regulations...all of which are most expertly ignored. There is a ratio of about 10 motorbikes to each car and they weave expertly (and terrifyingly) through traffic. Thai people don't do things alone. Everything is communal, even drives can turn into family outings, babies and toddlers holding onto the steering wheel, other times stacked on top of parents or siblings; sometimes 4 to one bike.

It is also not uncommon for drivers of public transportation to be intoxicated. Red bus, yellow bus, tuk tuk... if you have any doubt in your mind about your driver's coherency level and ability it is safest to bail out immediately.

I’m just glad I will never be forced to drive any type of vehicle here. Watching is enough excitement for me. As a passenger I get front row seats to the Dance that is Chiang Mai driving. Lanes are subject to interpretation and these vehicles take the opportunity to get creative. The metallic sheets of metal glide from partner to partner getting so close I’m left on the edge of my seat waiting for the finale of sparks and sounds of crashing applause, only to be left in awe as the pursued vehicle gracefully declines its seducer’s quest to become one. There is no apparent hesitation, nor fear, and in the rare occurrence of a blunder all is quickly forgotten and forgiven with no road rage lingering. This all usually leaves me feeling a little sick and praying silently for my life.


When I'm not encountering culture shock I'm usually slaving away for I.S.D.S.I.
Class has been getting more draining by the day. After a night of reading several articles for seminar and practing language lessons from the previous day, 4 hours of language is a lot to handle. Buuut I enjoy the company of the small group I’m with so that helps me get through it. Lunch is always a nice long break and always delicious as is every single thing I’ve tried here thus far (even chicken’s blood, I’m SO glad I had no idea that’s what I was eating while I was eating it. Gyuhhck).

There are usually surprises awaiting throughout the week too, which help keep us in good spirits. Yesterday we got to school and we were given an envelope with 500 baht (around 15 dollars) and a list of ingredients in Thai. We were brought on a field trip to a market where they set use loose…an overexcited pack of farang (foreigners) Ready, set, go go goong hang (dried shrimp) Dua Fagk Yoow (reeeally long beans), and all sorts of interesting looking fresh veggies. After we collected the items on our list (and sampled several delectables upon our appetite’s request) we returned to school to an awaiting team of master chiefs: our professors. We spent the rest of the day in teams preparing the most epic and authentic Thai feast known to man. Barbequed chicken and pork with coconut curry sauce, fried fish caked topped with veggie garnish, papaya salad with peanuts, pudding desert wrapped in banana leaves, topped with coconut…Just wow. The best part was learning from the most adorable little grandma I’ve ever met. She was so hilarious and I think we have a mutual understanding that I’ve adopted her. She taught me that in Thailand it is essential to finish tasks. “If you do not finish what you start, no man will come to ask to marry you.” Proof that I’m learning valuable life lessons over here.

Not suprisingly I’m getting laughed at a lot by my family. Usually when I attempt to pronounce anything in Thai. I swear every word is impossible and I must have verbal dyslexia…let’s just say it’s a slow process but far from painful because I bask in the joy it brings my host sisters because they have the funniest laughs ever.

Which reminds me of a great story. A few days ago my host dog, a huge German shepherd named Guiii-tar, was finally out of its cage. My host sisters felt the need to make a little human shield around me which was probably pretty funny looking because I’m approximately 30% larger in height and girth than both of them. I was trying to let them know that I was fine with dogs so I simply said… “oooh, cute, cute.” Well, not only did I fail to get the point across that I wanted to play with the dog because they continued to push the pet away and quickly ushered me into the house, but they also thought it was HILARIOUS. Except for the brief mocking squeal of “cuuute, cuuuute” I don’t think they stopped laughing for about 5 minutes. Now every time there is an animal in sight they point and repeat my apparently hilarious word choice and laugh laugh laugh at me. It’s all in good fun though, as everything is here in Thailand.

Off to prepare for a retreat at Wat Doi Suthep national park